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Keep'Em Rolling. Designed for the convenience and to promote safety for cyclists everywhere, the comprehensive FixIt Bike Repair Station with Air Kit 2 pump makes performing routine bike maintenance or repairs all the easier. You dressed the part: new kit, sweet Oakleys and your buddy's Pinnarello. Barnett's Manual breaks down every aspect of bicycle repair in a.
Repairing a bike inner tube is not only simple and cheap, but it's also mandatory in respect for the environment. Indeed a punctured tube can be repaired many times before being thrown out. A different matter is when the tube is cut or the valve leaks, since it's more difficult repair the tube. Anyway most of the times the leak is caused by a nail or a thorn, and the hole is very tiny.
Although many of you already know this process, I'll explain how to easy add a patch to a pierced bike inner tube. Time to spread the right amount of mastic on a surface a little wider than the patch. Move the head of the mastic container from center to the border, as pizza maker does with the tomato sauce. Use a thin layer of glue. More isn't better and if it is cold will take much longer to cure. If too much comes out use the small rubber tubes in the repairing kit to spread it out. The mastic will now dry in a few minutes.
About 10 minutes will be probably a good time to wait before attaching the patch. Don't touch the area that has been roughed up. Oil from your hand will contaminate the surface and impact glue adhesion. To remove the thin plastic sheet you have to keep down the patch red border with your nail. It's not a big problem if the border detaches, anyway try to leave it glued. If the plastic layer won't release from the top of the patch, leave it be, when 60+ psi push it against the inside of the tire, it isn't going to make any difference.
Now you could in theory assemble the tube on the wheel, inflate it and ride. So don't be afraid to do that, BUT. Remember to check both the inside of the tire and the tube protector strip on the rim for what caused the hole! If you miss that step you'll probably incur in the same identical accident for the same reasons. Now deflate (this is the tedious part), roll up the tube and hold it with an elastic.
If you predict to not use it in a few time, you probably should scatter it with talcum powder, so the rubber will last much more time. Also pay attention keeping your reserve tubes in the little bag under the saddle, because continual rubbing can wear out the borders. A solution is to put the tube in an old sock, which makes a great rag and you can put it on your hand if you need to swing a derailleur out of the way to remove the rear wheel. And remember, always bring at least a reserve inner tube with you, among with the necessary to change it, and to be safe bring also a repairing kit, it happens to get three or more blowouts in the same trip! I'm not speaking about city cycling;-). FYI: In the course of some reading/research, I found many comments on the reason for the thin plastic strip on the top of the patch. Many of which made no sense.
I ended up calling the TEMA Tip Top patch company and speaking the product engineer. Common question (makes me wonder why the answer isn't on their web site) and the answer is: Nothing to do with using the patch. It's residue from the manufacturing process and they just leave it on. I assume that's cheaper than trying to remove it, and it does provide a small layer of protection over the patch.One more hint: Use the abrasion pad to mark the hole. And I've found the more complete the abrasion, the better the glue will stick to the inner-tube. The latest Tip Top patch kits stipulate that after putting on the patch, no pressure period is required. I teach basic bicycle maintenance at a bicycle coop including hands on tube patching.
I use a kit that has instructions to show students the benefit of reading them (former aircraft mechanic where everything was done by the book). To your great 'struable I would like to offer:. Make the mark of the hole twice as big as the patch with an 'X' through the center of the hole.
Allows for spreading out glue if too much is applied. Don't touch the area that has been roughed up.
Oil from your hand will contaminate the surface and impact glue adhesion. Use a thin layer of glue.
More isn't better and if it is cold will take much longer to cure. If too much gets glopped on (technical term:-) ) use the end of the tube to spread it out. If the thin plastic won't release from the top of the patch, leave it be. When 60+ psi push it against the inside of the tire, it isn't going to make any difference. Don't forget to check both the inside of the tire and the tube protector strip on the rim for what caused the hole. Hey, discovered something to add to this.
A lot of patch kits come with a VERY small tube of glue that just won't do all the patches included. Well, turns out that if you heat the patch while it's on, the orange part will melt and adhere to the tube even better than with the glue alone. Throwback from when patch kits included a box of matches for vulcanising, I guess. Anyway, by running a lighter gently over the patch then pressing down hard, I got a better bond than by glue alone and needed just a tiny drop to hold the patch in place. I even experimented with NO glue - just the heat method.
Lao sangam mn font. The tube is still holding air perfectly, so if you're stuck for glue, find a smoker!
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